Breton Cuisine

 

The specialty of Brittany region is seafood, both fish and shellfish and it is probably the best in both quality and variety in the whole of France if not Europe. The cold platter of raw (cru) shellfish is a good starter, otherwise mussels or clams, farcies/gratines, or garlic -buttered , breadcrumbed and grilled in half-shells; or coquilles St. Jacques - scallops in white wine sauce with piped potato or, of course Bellon oysters.

For the main course there are lobsters, crayfish, crabs, spider crabs or scampi for the shellfish lover. Otherwise salmon, trout or cotriade - Breton fish stew. The most famous meat dish is lamb pre-sale, or reared on salt pastures, often served with white beans. Pork is eaten mainly in high flavored charcuterie. Game, particularly hare and partridge is tasty. Breton vegetables are renowned, particularly globe artichokes, cauliflowers, peas, onion and potatoes. Plougastel strawberries and other fruits are good.

Brittany is famous for its crepes, and there are more creperies per square kilometer here than anywhere else in France. The brown ones (sometimes called galettes) are made with buckwheat flour and are eaten salted, with savory fillings (cheese, eggs, ham, sausage). The white ones with ordinary flour are sugared, with ham or honey or liqueurs. Quimper lace pancakes are a speciality.

In Breton, a cake is a kouign, and the best known type is the kouign-aman, a sweet fried cake of wheat flour, eggs and honey. The gateau Breton is a cake made with butter and usually fruit. As in Normandy, Cider is the main drink. Though only fouesnant cider can equal the Norman in quality.

Dry white wines from the vineyards around Nantes - Muscadet and gros plant - are also widely drunk, especially with seafood.

Personal Restaurant Favorites (see also NY Times / Bon Appetit Articles)

le Val Andre
Au Biniou - 121 Rue Clemenceau - 02 96 72 24 35
Closed Tue night & Wed except Jul/Aug - 20/30 euro menu - 15 euro menu at lunch only
Good quality local restaurant featuring fruits de mer

Loudeac
Les Voyageurs - 10 Rue Cadelac - 02 96 28 00 47
Closed Fri night & Sat - 12/25 euro menu
Excellent ingredients, preparation and presentation

St Malo (Intra Muros)
Chalut - 8 Rue Corne de Cerf - 02 99 56 71 58
Closed Mon & Tue -
15/35 euro menu
1 rosette (Michelin)
- reservations recommended

Cancale
Ty Briez - 13 Quai Gambetta - 02 99 89 60 26
14/35 euro menu
Grilled Langoustines & the special Seafood Crepe are musts

Dol de Bretagne
La Bresche Arthur - 36 Blvd Deminiac - 02 99 48 01 44
Closed Sun night & Mon except Jul/Aug - 12/20/29 euro menu
Local ingredients & excellent preparations - reservations recommended

St Aubin
Le Relais de St Aubin - 2.5km SE of Erquy on D34 - 02 96 72 13 22
Closed Tue except Jul/Aug - 18/30 euro menu - 12 euro lunch only
Sited in 17th C priory with open fireplace
Great Coquille St. Jacques specials & Calvados Sorbet

Splurges

Cancale
Maisons de Bricourt - Rue DuGuesclin
Closed Wed night & Mon/Fri lunch - Very Expensive
2 rosettes (Michelin)
- recommended by Patricia Wells - reservations a must
Warmed oysters & roasted lobster

Plancoet
Jean-Pierre Crouzil - in center of Plancoet
Closed Sun night & Mon - Very Expensive
2 rosettes (Michelin)
- reservations a must
St. Jacques & homard Breton.

Mur-de-Bretange
Auberge Grand Maison - in center of Mur-de-Bretagne
Closed Sun night & Mon - Expensive
1 rosette
(Michelin) - reservations recommended
All lobster menu March-November, profiteroles de foie gras, tournedos de pied de porc

Sables d'Or les Pins
Voile d'Or - la Lagune
Closed Mon/Tue/Wed lunch - Expensive
1 rosette (Michelin)
- reservations recommended
Oysters, sabayon de cidre & pommes, lobster

Frehel
la Victorine - Place Mairie
Closed Tue/Wed - Expensive
1 rosette (Michelin)
- reservations recommended
Seafood specialties

Cheap Eats

Lamballe
Au Boeuf d'Or - Rue de Calmette (behind Tourist Office) - Closed Sun - 9 euro lunch
Le Petit Ecuyer - Rue St Martin (behind Haras National) - Closed Sun - 9 euro lunch
Lamballe Market - Thu mornings only - Must try gallettes with grilled sausage (2 euro)

Loudeac
Les Routiers - RN164 - 7 Rue Lavergne - closed Sun - 9 euro lunch & dinner

Plaintel
Le Sebastopol - Plaintel exit off D700 between St Brieuc and Loudeac - closed Sun
9 euro lunch & dinner (including wine, cider & coffee)